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The Eight in Grand Lisboa Hotel. 澳門新葡京8餐廳

Every time I went to Macau, I always thought of visiting Master Tse of The Eight Restaurant at the Grand Lisboa Hotel, but I was a bit hesitate about my intention. First of all, The Eight Restaurant was always in full house, secondly, my visit surely will bother Master Tse as I am sure he will serve me some dishes out of the menu. However, when Master Tse told me he can welcome me no matter how busy he is and he is glad to serve me some seasonal dishes that have not yet been served publicly, I really feel being flattered, and I can’t resist from his irresistible invitation.

I was served with a few exquisite starters: roast pork, crispy baby pig and barbecued pork with goose liver, as well as two exquisite Dim Sum dishes, one is steamed and one is fried. They are steamed dumplings with crystal blue shrimps in golden shape, crispy deep-fried truffle shrimp rolls. After the taste buds has warmed up, it is time to expect for the wonderful seasonal dishes.

Before the big surprise, I was served with a bowl of stew soup which has not yet launched in the restaurant. The materials included the swollen-stalked catathelasma ,Asian moon scallop and dried fish maw, sweet and delicious, infiltrated with a touch of astringency, this taste really further help to enhance our appetite and it also reflect how real the raw material is.

Then, I was being served with the dish of water hyacinth fried with Japan Hokkigai and water hyacinth. The season of the water hyacinth is quite short, only about two weeks, while frying Japan Hokkigai must be very skilful, the intensity of the fire and the timing must be just right . Master Tse said that he was worried that Japan Hokkigai was a bit overcooked as he didn’t realised that the plate serving the dish is being heated, so he was afraid that the heat on the plate will make the Japan Hokkigai a little bit overheated. The meticulousness is the key of Master Tse’s success. I ensure him that the Japan Hokkigai was still fresh and tender. It possibly due to the high quality of the Japan Hokkigai. The water hyacinth is delicious, refreshing and sweet.

After that, I was being served with rice noodles with white shell in black bean sauce. In general restaurant, rice noodles are fried in a little hard and sticky style, can be served in the style made by Master Tse which is real crunchy and delicious. The treatment and control of the fire was just perfect. Besides Master Tse, as far as I can remember, Master Wong Wing Keung and the chefs from the Beauty Kitchen can succeed in making such crispy fried rice noodles. The white shell from Japan is very fresh with sea water. The dish as a whole was fresh, tender, juicy and crisp. Men who ate this dish really have the feeling of rejuvenation after the tasting.

After dinner, I continued chatting with Master Tse as to express my appreciation for his magnificent cooking skills. Do not just follow the new trend of making Chinese cuisine which might be only appealing for the eyes. Besides, I expressed my worry about the decline of traditional and exquisite Cantonese Dish. When the old generation of Master Chefs like Master Tse, Master Wong Wing Keung retired from the front line, what will happen? I guess it probably takes only 10 years that we can still enjoy the traditional Cantonese cuisine, while Master Tse said it should be only five years left. After all, for Master Chef like Master Tse, it is time to retreat from the front line to enjoy life, but the inheritance of this know-how and art is an issue, as the standard of the young chef is far from that of the last generation.

The sunset is infinitely good, what a pity it is just near dusk.

A portrayal of Hong Kong.



每次到澳門,總是心思思想到新葡京的8餐廳探望謝師傅,但又不好意思打擾他,餐廳每天高朋滿座,一席難求,而我知道謝師傅總會費點心思,製作一些餐牌以外的菜式,對我這個饞嘴客而言,當然滿心高興,但又恐怕這會擾亂他的日常部署,帶著矛盾去吃飯的感覺,總有點不自在,所以當我聽見謝師傅說別客氣,千萬別静静來悄悄去,今天會製作幾道還未推出的時令菜式讓我先食為快,一番美意令我受寵若驚,也放下心頭大石。

先吃幾款百吃不厭的精美前菜,叉燒、脆皮乳豬和鵝肝金錢雞,還有兩款精緻點心,一蒸一炸,分別以金魚 和 鮮蝦造型 的 藍天使蝦金魚餃和脆炸松露蝦卷,味蕾熱身過後,是時候等待精彩的時令菜出場。且慢,先喝一碗新款燉湯,尚未在餐廳推出,材料有老人頭菌、日月魚和扎膠,清甜可口,十分滋潤,滲透著淡淡的澀味,我不抗拒,反而覺得醒胃提神,突顯材料的真實感。

然後是鳳眼果炒日本北寄貝,我有點驚訝,鳳眼果通常在農曆七月初才當造,畢竟早熟是不可逆轉的大趨勢,果實如是,少女亦如是。鳳眼果的時令相當短暫,只有大概兩星期,而炒北寄貝十分考功夫,火候要準繩,稍一過火肉質便帶韌。謝師傅說他擔心北寄貝有點過熟,因他未有在意盛菜的碟子是有加熱保溫,恐怕碟子上的熱量會令北寄貝稍微過火。一絲不苟正是謝師傅成功之道,我說不用擔心,北寄貝的肉質依然鮮嫩,可能是日本貨源關係,質素較高。鳳眼果好吃,清爽香甜,挑剔一點的話,我會略嫌 粉狀 口感未足,相信兩星期後狀態會更好,謝師傅亦同意,但既然供應商找到貨源,一試無妨。

跟著是豉汁白貝 配煎米粉,切勿視煎米粉為普通製作,一般餐廳的做法只是焊底,令米粉少許硬身,黏黏糯糯,但做不到十八歲卜卜脆的口感。面前這個煎米粉一咬即破,處理和掌控火候到家,印像中除了謝師傅,還有黃永強師傅和美女廚房做過這樣脆口的煎米粉。來自日本的白貝帶著很重的海水味,感覺鮮嫩,質素甚高,整道菜的感覺是新鮮、嫩滑、多汁、卜卜脆,男士吃後真的有回春的感覺。

飯後和謝師傅繼續攀談,一方面表達我對他紮實廚藝的欣賞,不裝模作樣,不隨波逐流,不跟風做一些砌圖拼顏色的新派中菜,同時也感嘆香港的粤菜正日暮西山,當謝師傅、黃永強師傅等一代退下前線之後,會是甚麼局面,我說大概還有十年時間,大家應盡情去享受傳統粵菜的精粹,怎料謝師傅比我更悲觀,他說不出五年,畢竟像他這一代都年事已高,是時候退下火線享受生活,接班人始終是個頭痛的問題,傳承不去、承傳不來,新晉師傅的功力還有一段距離。

夕陽無限好,只是近黃昏。香港的寫照。

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