Omakase 大江戶

Alain Ducasse 是法國最有影響力的廚藝大師，由餐飲概念到飲食管理，來到 Ducasse手裏，就會成為星級商品。頂級餐廳如巴黎米芝蓮 3 星的 Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athenee，大眾化路線以 Bistro 風格創建於 1890 年的 Aux Lyonnais里昂菜館，在 Ducasse 管理下，都會變為餐飲名店。Alain Ducasse 的一舉手、一投足，經常會引起業內人士關注。 Alain Ducasse is definitely the most influential MasterChef in France! Under the helm of the legendary chef (in terms of his culinary concept to F&B management), it will become a star quality F&B house, ranges from Michelin three starred Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athenee, to bistro Aux Lyonnais, which dedicated to the Lyonnaise cuisine since the establishment in 1890. Thus, the F&B industry always pays attention to the act and direction of Alain Ducasse. RECH 是法國歷史悠久的海鮮店，Ducasse把法南地中海感覺帶來香港。 RECH 除了法國人傳統的生蠔與海鮮盆有名以外，更把它的招牌菜引進；1118 港元有 5 道名廚體驗餐，難怪情侶特別多。小龍蝦湯、普羅旺斯小麥窩‧黃菌‧檸檬‧羅勒兩道菜過往都吃過，兩道都美味。藍龍蝦‧椰子‧咖喱主打東方口味，不會輸！金文畢芝士Camembert 是法國人的芝士，在諾曼第旁的小村有專門工場為 RECH 定量生產， 法國死硬芝士粉絲都知道，為它而來的芝士客也不小。最後來的榛子雪糕配朱古力醬，榛子餅心鬆而乾脆，內有雪糕，朱古力漿是暖暖的淋在面上。現吃現淋，味道傳統，吃法卻加添上優雅。吃得好，就是法國海鮮大餐了！ RECH is long standing seafood restaurant in France (since 1925), Mr. Ducasse decided to introduce the first international outpost of RECH, as purpose to bring the Southern French vibe in Hong Kong. RECH provides an authentically French seafood experience, showcasing the best seasonal fish, shellfish and oysters and its signature cuisine. The signature five course menu costs $1118 only, and it mostly attracts couples— Spiced crayfish broth , Small spelt from Haute-Provence, girolle-lemon-parsley I have tasted before, and both are excellent. Blue lobster coconut-curry expresses in oriental palate, no one will dislike it! Camembert cheese is a favourite cheese for French; there is a village nearby Normandy that specializes to produce Camembert cheese for RECH (All avid French cheese lovers know this fact), and most of the cheese fans aim for the dish in RECH. Finally it comes to Hazelnut ice cream and chocolate sauce — The crunchy hazelnut biscuit is stuffed with ice-cream, and the warm chocolate sauce is pouring. The taste is traditional but elegant. An excellent feast should be French seafood feast! CAPTIONS: 1 普羅旺斯小麥窩‧黃菌‧檸檬‧羅勒，美味！ Small spelt from Haute-Provence, girolle-lemon-parsley is delicious! 2 金文畢芝士 Camembert 是法國人的芝士，在諾曼第旁的小村有專門工場為 RECH 定量生產。 Camembert cheese is a favourite cheese for French; there is a village nearby Normandy that specializes to produce Camembert cheese for RECH 3 榛子雪糕配朱古力醬，榛子餅心鬆而乾脆，內有雪糕，朱古力漿是暖暖的淋在面上。 The crunchy hazelnut biscuit is stuffed with ice-cream, and the warm chocolate sauce is pouring. 4 與一般商業路線不一樣， Alain Ducasse 朱古力是巴黎量產空運到港，做的是現代細膩味道。 Unlike the commercial chocolatier, Alain Ducasse chocolate is imported directly from Paris, and express in contemporarily elegance. 5 餐前薄脆是混合海藻脆脆！ The crispbread is a combined with algae! 6 法包同樣加入海藻增加海洋風味。 The Baguette is also included with algae to enhance its oceanic vibe.

Kappo cuisine is unfamiliar for Hong Kong people, which involves a wide variety of culinary skills, with the meaning of foods cutting by a kitchen knife and cooking with fire. When Japanese see “Kappo”, they know it covers a wide range of food. The premium “Kappo Itamae” and susuhi shop “Itamae” are basically the same, but the former one involves much greater degree of scope. HAKU is a modern themed fine dining restaurant that mainly serves with the fusion “Kappo Itamae” cuisine from contemporary European and traditional Japanese cuisines. The high-end Kappo cuisines consist course after course, most of the people may misunderstand it is Kaiseki cuisine when they taste the first time. HAKU is curated by Hideaki Matsuo, the owner of three starred Michelin Osaka based restaurant, Kashiwaya. This MasterChef collaborates with Argentine Chef Agustin Balbi to create innovative, mid-range priced cuisine. According to the standards of new store, the food quality were exceptional. The appetizers of HAKU are similar to contemporary European food —Beetroot Taco, fried small fish, steamed eggs in mini version and seaweed roll, all of them were tasty on each bite. The most memorable main courses were Japanese Oyster/ Yuzu Kosho/Apple Granita, Kyushu Tomatoes, Bellota Ham/Kamasu and Kagoshima Wagyu Beef with Black Truffle Sauce. 割烹，香港人認識較少，一般泛指是使用各種各樣不同烹調技法餐館的專稱。簡單說，“割”是以刀割，“烹”就是烹調。日本人看到“割烹”，就知道是包羅萬有。高級的「割烹板前」與壽司店的「板前」基礎上是一樣，但要照顧的層面卻大得多。HAKU 是日本創意料理新餐廳，主打是現代歐陸料理與日式料理融合的「割烹板前」。高級的割烹料理，由於菜式多，菜饌一道一道上，頭一次吃割烹定餐式的朋友們，很多時候都會誤認這是懷石料理。HAKU由大阪三星米芝蓮名店柏屋主廚松尾英明組班，請來了曾在日本工作的阿根廷大廚 Agustin Balbi聯合做創意，以中擋位的價格路線做美食，按新店的標準來說，算是在水準之上。HAKU 小吃較貼近現代歐陸料理，紅菜頭Taco、炸小魚、迷你蒸蛋與紫菜卷，都是一口一滋味的。印象深刻的主菜有清新青蘋果、柚子刨冰與山椒葉配北海道生蠔，九州五色蕃茄、西班牙風乾火腿配醋漬日本梭子魚與及炭火鹿兒島和牛配黑松露汁。

When I think about Chinese BBQ pork, the sorrowful rice from 《The God of Cookery》will unintentionally appear on my mind. A flavourful Chinese BBQ pork should embody a tender texture, shiny red colour and aromatic palate. This comfort food is the No.1 favourite food for Hong Kong people, it can be found at everywhere, including Chinese roast shop and Chinese restaurants. Normally Chinese BBQ pork are made of pork shoulder, seasoned with soya sauce, garlic, malt sugar, fermented red beancurd, five spice powder, and rose distilled wine sauce. The pork is stuck by a large still fork while undergo a roast process. Chinese BBQ pork has a layered flavour, and it is finely matched with red, white or sparkling wine. Sun Kwai Heung (Chai Wan), Joy Hing Roasted Meat (Wan Chai) and Wing Cheung Restaurant (Happy Valley) are the very popular Chinese BBQ pork shops. Amongst the three shops, Sun Kwai Heung is my most favourite, its BBQ pork has a nice balance of fat and meat during the early lunch at 11am, and it is more succulent and aromatic than the lean BBQ pork. Chinese BBQ pork can only be found in Guangdong province, a gem for Southern Chinese people. The fat Chinese BBQ pork appears in rich fatty aroma and plum palate; the thin one is an admiration of texture. There are lots of people do not know how to choose the Chinese BBQ pork, the rounder, thicker texture is actually tender in palate (even it does not have any fat). 想到叉燒，就不其然會想起在《食神》裡出現的黯然銷魂飯。好味道的叉燒離不開肉質軟嫩、色鮮味香。叉燒是香港人摯愛首選，燒味飯店、酒家與餐廳，幾乎是無處不在。市面上的叉燒通常選用脢頭（豬肩）肉製作，再用上調味如生抽、蒜蓉、麥芽糖、南乳、五香粉、玫瑰露酒等製成的「叉燒醬」腌製，以鋼叉「叉」在火上「燒」烤，「叉燒」便由此誕生了。叉燒的味道層次多，配上紅、白葡萄或是香檳氣酒，效果都會很不錯。 要數香港的叉燒名店，柴灣的新桂香燒臘、灣仔再興燒臘飯店與跑馬地永祥燒臘飯店都受歡迎。三家當中個人最愛是新桂香，早飯十一時，半肥瘦的叉燒剛出爐，比起瘦的叉燒肉，吃起來較有潤香，周邊微微焦燒，吃起來微脆不韌又有熱暖的滋味！燒味只在廣東省出沒，是南方人的寶。肥的叉燒肉，吃的是油脂豐香；瘦的叉燒肉，欣賞是肉味的本質。很多人不懂選叉燒，其實只要圓身較厚一點的，就算不帶肥脂的肉質也會鬆化。