One of my generous friend brought a bottle of refined Bourgogne red, Collection Bellenum Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 1993 for our lunch gathering at a Chinese restaurant. The grand cru area in Bourgogne are generally small, and their vineyards are mostly surrounded by short stone walls ─ it is called “Clos”, the concept is as similar with the walled village of Kat Hing Wai.
It is said that there are more than 80 winery owners owned the 50 hectares of Vougeot, some winery owners have a few grape trees only, this is a prolonged history problem in Bourgogne. As compared with the 107 hectares of Chateau Lafite Rothschild owned by one person, the wine estates’ distribution in Bourgogne is apparently more complex.
The wine quality of Clos de Vougeot is renowned for its powerful fruitiness, unfortunately the wine glass offered by the Chinese restaurant brought up a weak aroma and a loose plate, its poor performance could not make people believed they were enjoying a bottle of Bourgogne Grand Cru. I was not satisfied with the result, and asked the waiter to substitute the glasses with two brandy glasses. Although they were tiny, their glass shape were slightly similar with Bourgogne wine glass. Using brandy glasses to enjoy Bourgogne wine was quite odd, but they brought up the Clos de Vougeot with a totally different performance: the aroma became intense, while the notes of berries, minerals and violet intertwined with each other. Besides showing an opulent and elegant palate, the disappearing textures from the normal wine glass also appear slowly; a round and lengthy aftertaste existed in the end.
It was unbelievable for my friend that a tiny brandy glass can reveal the true colour of Clos de Vougeot!
朋友約在酒家食午飯，他帶來了一瓶布爾崗 (Bourgogne)列級葡萄園Collection Bellenum Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 1993。在布爾崗的列級園面積都很小，很多時會用矮小的石牆來把葡萄園‘圍’起來，這便是‘Clos’，有點像“吉慶圍”等圍村的概念。
Vougeot的葡萄園面積約50公頃，據說現時由超過80個園主擁有，有些園主只擁有幾行葡萄樹！這是布爾崗由來已久的歷史問題，相比於在波爾多的拉菲堡 (Chateau Lafite Rothschild) 佔地107公頃卻只由一個人擁有，布爾崗顯然更是複雜難明。
Clos de Vougeot 的酒素以果香澎湃見稱，可惜當日那酒家只能提供不合格的小酒杯，不單香氣薄弱，入口結構也極鬆散，叫人難以想象這是一瓶成熟充足的布爾崗列級，筆者心有不甘，連忙叫侍應換上兩隻白蘭地 (Brandy) 酒杯，雖然也是小型酒杯，但外型有點兒像布爾崗的酒杯形狀，用白蘭地杯來喝布爾崗雖然有點怪怪的，但這Clos de Vougeot在這杯內的發揮卻是天淵之別，香氣馬上變得濃郁芬芳，莓子、礦物與紫羅蘭花香交替而至，入口豐潤優雅，連剛才失了蹤的層次感也慢慢浮現，餘韻飽滿綿長，一隻小小的白蘭地杯居然可以替這瓶Clos de Vougeot回復真身，連友人也咄咄稱奇呢！