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Wine.Luxe Magazine
Aug 1, 2017

The Timeless Master 永遠的大師 : Giorgio Armani

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Edited: Aug 3, 2017

 

“In fashion, one day you’re in, and the next day, you’re out!” The famous quote from Project Runway reveals the cruel truth of the fashion industry, even a talented designer cannot guarantee his longevity on the runway (Issac Mizrahi is one of the renowned example). Of course, some people are very successful at this extremely competitive industry — someone can work for a prestigious blue-chip brand for over half century; someone can transform a dying old brand into a lucrative and chic brand. However, there is one man could create the trend and applied his art and commerce sense to develop an eponymous Italian fashion house remarkably. Throughout 4 decades, this iconic man has dominated the whole fashion industry, his name is Giorgio Armani.

 

How successful is Giorgio Armani? Let’s talk about his design aspect first! With relaxed and simple design, his highlights the aesthetic side of human body subtly from seem-to-be unintentional tailoring — a convincible reason that attract lots of top celebrities to dress the stylish formal suits/dresses at plenty of award ceremonies. You can see Lionel Messi 、Leonardo Dicaprio and Mark Wahlberg looks dapper in GA suits; Cate Blanchett and Anne Hathaway looks glamorously chic. Mr. Armani’s masterpieces are always appeared easily in Oscar.

 

The key success of the fashion master is his unique, precise vision, who recognised the economic boom in 1980s — when urban people sought opportunities to strike for success. The social phenomenon inspired him to design “Power suit” with broad padded shoulders and widened lapels, which seemed to give power, fortitude and confidence for men and women. The launch of “Power suit” took the Fashion industry by storm, and led to a skyrocketing sales for the brand, as well as to make Giorgio Armani became a household name of top fashion designer.

 

The humble fashion master did not become self-satisfied after receiving the huge success in 1980s, he was keen to follow the swiftly changing pace of time, and his collections are always embodied with the elements of the era. The latest 17/18 collection expresses the removal of rigidly tough men, but it’s through the use of exquisitely crafted materials and finishes that the masculine figure is here redesigned.

 

Textures are natural, warm and luxurious that outline a vigorous figure; a combination of masculine colours and typical Armani hues, highlighted by touches of orange, dusty light blue, burgundy and green, alternated with classic blue. The 83 years old Master is still able to show the mix of stylish and elegant “attentive men” image of the new era, with his eminent fashion sense

真人騷節目Project Runway有句名言真的道出時裝界的殘酷事實”In fashion, one day you’re in, and the next, you’re out!”,即使你是才華洋溢的設計師,也不一定可以在天橋稱霸多年(Isaac Mizrahi就是其中著名例子)。當然這個競爭激烈的行業總會有人成功:有人可以在一個殿堂級品牌工作超過半個世紀;有人可以為某個品牌起死回生。不過有一個人可以創造潮流、憑藉自己的商業觸覺和藝術將自己個人品牌建立得有聲有色,在40年一直吒咤整個時裝界,這位成功人物就是Giorgio Armani。

 

Giorgio Armani有幾成功?先講設計方面,他的設計輕鬆簡約,在看似不經意的剪裁下隱約突顯人體的美感,吸引不少荷里活明星穿著其設計的禮服出席各大頒獎禮,型男如Lionel Messi 、Leonardo Dicaprio、Mark Wahlberg穿得官仔骨骨;女明星如Cate Blanchett、Anne Hathaway份外高貴動人。大師的出品每年都會在Oscar 容易亮相。

 

不過說到Armani大師成功之處就是他的獨到眼光,看準80年代的經濟蓬勃景象,當時的都市人渇求力爭上游的機會,讓他靈機一動設計「權力套裝」(Power suit),在套裝上添上寬闊的肩膀和寬闊的翻領,猶如令在職男女賦給權力並給予堅強、自信氣勢。「權力套裝」推出後引起莫大迴響,讓Giorgio Armani服裝銷情暴漲,大師更自此成為家傳戶曉的首席時裝設計師。

 

即使在80年代品牌獲得巨大成功,Giorgio Armani大師並沒有因此自滿,反而一直與時並進,在往後的系列都滲入時代的元素。在最新的17/18男裝秋冬系列,想表達刻板硬漢形象需要擺脫,反而透過精緻的布料和裝飾元素來重新詮釋男子氣概。質感自然、溫暖而奢華;性感的毛羊衣飾勾勒出更為矯健的線條,而且融合Armani 的經典色調,並以一撮的橙色、灰淡藍色、酒紅色和綠色加以突顯更有活力十足的格調。透過今季可以看見年屆83歲的大師依然能為新時代男士塑造型格優雅共融的暖男形象。

 

Photo Courtesy : Giorgio Armani S.P.A. and Flickr

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