IWC DA Vinci

While working for watch brands before, I thought I had got broad and profound knowledge in this field, but until switching to watch magazine, I found out I was just a little, ignorant person in this vast world. Since then, I have fallen in love with A. Lange & Söhne, and have always been eager to visit their manufacture in Glashütte. At the end of last year, there was a great opportunity for me to have to peek at their brand-new Pre-SIHH collection, elite craftsmanship and to meet Mr. Walter Lange (who passed away in early 2017) in person. The Lange family’s mansion exhibited almost every offering of the renewed brand within the past twenty years. I was totally engaged to the Zeitwerk collection, but almost every collection is my favourite, especially its chronograph series. As told by most renowned watchmakers, creating a beautiful chronograph movement is more difficult than making a tourbillon. Besides Patek Philippe and Minerva of Montblanc, A. Lange & Söhne also has the most stunning hand-wound chronograph movement. Datograph is one of the most signature chronograph model in the brand’s history and even in the entire watch-making industry. Anyway, 1815 Chronograph is another piece that can be compared with Datograph. Since 2004, 1815 Chronograph has become a member of the 1815 collection, incorporating the classic design element of pocket watch - the minute railway track symmetrical to the sub-dial plate. In 2010, 1815 Chronograph is replaced with new hand-wound chronograph movement L951.5, with the frequency of 2.5Hz and 60-hour power reserve. Revealing the exquisite handcraftsmanship, the calibre is finely polished and adorned, not to mention the beautiful carvings on the balance wheel and bridge, flyback chronograph with precisely jumping minute counter and pulsometer scale. The traditional German watch-making elements are worth to be mentioned as well, like 3/4 plate, swan neck regulator and screwed gold chatons. Composed of a 39.5mm white gold case, this year’s brand-new 1815 Chronograph also includes the same hand-wound chronograph movement, yet with a black dial with silvered accents. 以前在品牌打工，以為自己知道很多認識很深，但轉到腕錶雜誌工作，才知道世界那麼大，自己何等渺小無知。從那時起，便一直很喜歡朗格，很想到格拉蘇蒂去看他們的錶廠。去年底終於有機會，去看他們的Pre-SIHH新錶，看他們的製錶工藝，還有幸遇見已故的Walter Lange先生。記得當時品牌在Lange家族的大宅裡，展出差不多所有品牌在過去二十多年重生以來推出的腕錶。愛不釋手的是Zeitwerk系列，但其實幾乎每一款我都喜歡，都想擁有，尤其是計時款式。 很多製錶大師都不只一次講過，要造一台漂亮的計時機芯，比造陀飛輪更難。而現時手造上鍊計時機芯造得最漂亮的，除了百達翡麗，除了萬寶龍的Minerva，還有朗格。 Datograph在品牌歷史上，甚至整個製錶工業上，是最為重要最為經典的計時腕錶之一，但其實1815 Chronograph也不遑多讓。從2004年開始，品牌為1815家族加入新的計時錶款1815 Chronograph，加入昔日袋錶的設計元素，例如火車軌分鐘刻度環 和對稱的sub-dial錶盤設計。到2010年，品牌為1815 Chronograph換上一台全新的手上鍊計時機芯L951.5，2.5 Hz擺頻，60小時動力儲備，機芯以全人手打磨和裝飾，擺輪夾板亦以手工雕刻上漂亮花紋；備飛返計時功能、跳分式計時和脈搏計刻度。還有傳統德國風格的製錶工藝，例如四分三夾板、鵝頸微調、黃金螺絲套筒等。今年推出的新款1815 Chronograph，同樣採用這台L951.5手上鍊飛返計時機芯，但就換上黑色純銀錶盤，襯以39.5毫米白金錶殼。

As I always say, I like Grand Seiko very much, especially after visiting its factory in Japan. Compared with the factories of some Swiss watch manufacturers, I can affirm that Grand Seiko is one of the most treasurable watch brands. The 44GS that I bought a few years ago is still one of my favourites now. Someone asks me why I have to spend thousands of dollars on a Seiko? You would know the answer if you are a connoisseur of timepieces. Otherwise, you will never understand even after reading the whole passage. This year is a monumental year for Grand Seiko, as it would become an independent brand renamed as “GS Grand Seiko”, separated from its parent Seiko, which means the words “Seiko GS” will not appear on the dials anymore. Apart from its name, all of its operations will also be independent, just like the relationship between Toyota and Lexus. Get it? Grand Seiko, as an independent brand, specially launches several timepieces this year. One of the highlights is Black Ceramic Collection, a sports watch with Spring Drive movement. Impervious to scratches and lightweight, its case is made of an innovative combination of zirconia ceramic and high-intensity titanium, ensuring a sense of comfort when doing sports. The Black Ceramic Collection has a diameter of 46.4mm with three editions available: SBGC219, the 10th Anniversary Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Limited Edition is designed with stylish blue dial, pink gold hands and index markers, precise tachymeter on Bezel and Caliber 9R96 Spring Drive movement. A Grand Seiko lion emblem in18k rose gold is also carved on the caseback. Other functional features include chronograph, calendar, power reserve indicator and GMT function, with power reserve of approximately 72 hours. The accuracy is ±10 seconds per month. Limited edition of 500 pieces. Another two regular editions are white dial model SBGC221 and black dial model SBGC223 respectively. The black bezels of both models feature a 24-hour mark, constructed with 9R86 Spring Drive automatic movements and the same functions as those of SBGC219. Though their movements are a basic model, the accuracy is not bad at all — ±1 second per day. 經常掛在口邊，我很喜歡Grand Seiko，尤其是當我參觀過精工的日本錶廠，跟一些瑞士錶廠比較，就令我更加肯定，Grand Seiko是最值得收藏的腕錶品牌之一。幾年前買過一隻44GS，到現在還是我最心愛的腕錶之一。有人問我，為什麼要花幾萬元去買一隻精工，懂錶的便會知道原因，不懂的，我寫一萬字去解釋，你也不會明白。 今年是Grand Seiko值得紀念的一年，因為精工決定把Grand Seiko獨立起來，以後不會再在Grand Seiko的腕錶上看到「Seiko GS」，而是把GS Grand Seiko作為一個獨立品牌。不單只是名字，連所有運作都會獨立起來，就好像Toyota和Lexus，你懂嗎？ 品牌今年就以Grand Seiko為獨立品牌，推出了多款腕錶，其中一款是採用Spring Drive機芯的運動型系列Black Ceramic Collection。以高強度鈦金屬和氧化鋯陶瓷來製造錶殼和鏈帶，防刮花之餘，重量亦十分輕，戴起來做運動就更加舒適。錶殼直徑46.4毫米，有三個不同版本。其中一款是慶祝Spring Drive計時腕錶GMT十週年紀念的限量版SBGC219，藍色錶盤襯玫瑰金指針和時標，錶圈上印有測速計刻度。搭載9R96 Spring Drive自動機芯，擺陀上鑲有18k玫瑰金Grand Seiko金獅標記。備計時、日曆、動力儲備顯示和GMT功能，動力儲備約72小時，準確度高達每月誤差±10秒。限量500枚。 另外兩個基本非限量款式分別是白色錶盤的SBGC221和黑色錶盤的SBGC223，黑色錶圈上印有24小時刻度。兩者均搭載9R86 Spring Drive自動機芯，功能跟SBGC219相同。雖然機芯是基本型號，但準確度一點都不失禮，每日誤差只有±1秒。

Before watching the new watch collections at Basel, I visited Chaplin’s World in Vevey, a former residence of Charlie Chaplin and his memorial museum. Why shall I visited there? As Jaeger- LeCoultre is a collaborator of Chaplin’s World, and the museum contains two objects that links closely with this blue-chip brand. Charlie Chapilin is one of the most iconic movie actor and director in the world. I did not know his fame when I was young, but the others (people at my age group) know him very well .Charlie was born in UK in 1889, his sad childhood— His father was disappeared, his mother raised him solely with poor economic condition ensured him to work in 9 years old. The young Charlie had also engaged in performing work, he started his acting career in Hollywood when he was brought to work abroad in USA in 19 years old. Throughout the years this talented artist had written, directed and performed a number of great movies, in order to become one of the most renowned people in the US movie industry. Unfortunately Charlie and his family were forced to leave the industry and resided to Vevey in Switzerland (until he died in 1977), as the consequences of different scandals and political views. The location of Chaplin’s World is the manor of Charlie settled in Switzerland. In year 2000, a group of heartful people had devoted their time and money to prepare and reconstruct the movie genius’ house, and this attraction spot was opened at the end of April last year. Behind the large field of garden, there is a museum (converted from Charlie’s manor) that keep the living area of the iconic actor, including parlour, bedroom, study room, and even the bathroom. Besides, you can discover a number of Chaplin’s filming scenes and some working studio. The museum is jam-packed with rich and interesting content, it is worthy to spend a whole day to visit if you are interested with this great movie icon. After a profound understanding with Charlie Chaplin, you can take a good rest at a fine restaurant with great greenery view. MEMOVOX In 1953 Charlie settled down in Switzerland, the state governor gave a Jaeger‑LeCoultre Memovox watch featuring a gold case engraved with the following inscription: “Hommage du gouvernement Vaudois à Charlie Chaplin – 6 octobre 1953”,in order to praise his grand tribute to the movie industry. After the movie master died in 1977, his son Michael Chaplin inherited the timepiece and gave it to his wife at the wedding. Then in 2013, the Memovox appeared at the short movie《A time for everything》 directed by Carmen Chaplin, the daughter of Michael. Recently, Jaeger-LeCoultre repaired this Jaeger- LeCoultre Memovox, and exhibit at the Chaplin’s World. ATMOS CLOCK In 1972, he was awarded “Caméra souriante” (smiling camera) prize by the Swiss press photographers association, as purpose to honour the artist for his kind attitude towards national journalists and this homage to a warm-hearted man took the shape of an Atmos clock. Jaeger-Le Coultre also borrows a same model of Atmos Clock and is display on the Manor as well. 到巴塞爾看新錶之前，去了Vevey看差利卓別靈的故居兼博物館，為什麼要去Chaplin's World？因為積家是Chaplin's World的合作伙伴，因為這裡有兩件物件，與積家息息相關。 差利卓別靈是世界上最經典的電影演員和導演之一，年輕的我不知道，但有我這把年紀的，應該無人不認識他。他於1889年在英國出生，年幼時父親失踪，由母親獨力照顧，家景貧窮，9歲未夠便得出來謀生，也有從事表演工作。到19歲時被帶到美國，開始其荷里活演藝生涯，多年來他自編自導自演過多套電影，更成為美國最著名的電影人之一。可惜受到醜聞和政見不同的影響，他和家人在1953年被逼離開自己渡過黃金歲月的地方，搬到瑞士的Vevey生活，直至1977年離世。 Chaplin's World的所在位置，便是差利卓別靈搬到瑞士時定居的地方。2000年時經一班有心人發起，再經歷多年的籌備和修建，於去年四月底時才正式對外開放。這裡有一大片花園；有改建成博物館的大宅，裡面保留了差利起居生活的地方，例如大廳、睡房、書房，甚至浴室；還有多個差利曾經拍攝過的電影場景和一些製片工作室。展覽內容十分豐富和有趣，對這位一代電影偉人的生平有興趣的話，很值得花一整天到這裡參觀，看累了，這裡有間餐廳，也有一大片綠油油的草地讓你可以舒展一下身心。 響 鬧 腕 錶 早於1953年差利搬到瑞士定居時，當時的州政府為了要表揚他對電影業的偉大貢獻，特別向他致送了一枚積家的Memovox響鬧腕錶，更在黃金錶殼上刻上「Hommage du gouvemement Vaudois à Charlie Chaplin - 6 Octobre 1953」的字樣。到1977年他去死時，他的兒子Michael Chaplin繼承了這枚腕錶，並在結婚時轉送了給妻子。後來於2013年，這枚腕錶又再次出現在Michael女兒Carmen Chaplin所導演的一套短片《A time for everything》中。最近積家就把這枚Memovox響鬧腕錶修復好，讓差利的家人可以把它放於Chaplin's World的大宅博物館內展出。 空 氣 鐘 到1972年，瑞士攝影記者協會向已故的差利卓別靈頒發「Caméra Souriante」（smiling camera）獎項，以表揚他對待傳媒的友善態度，並向他致送一座積家的Atmos Clock空氣鐘。現時積家便借出一座相同型號的空氣鐘，在大宅博物館內展出。