Grand Seiko - Black Ceramic Collection

While working for watch brands before, I thought I had got broad and profound knowledge in this field, but until switching to watch magazine, I found out I was just a little, ignorant person in this vast world. Since then, I have fallen in love with A. Lange & Söhne, and have always been eager to visit their manufacture in Glashütte. At the end of last year, there was a great opportunity for me to have to peek at their brand-new Pre-SIHH collection, elite craftsmanship and to meet Mr. Walter Lange (who passed away in early 2017) in person. The Lange family’s mansion exhibited almost every offering of the renewed brand within the past twenty years. I was totally engaged to the Zeitwerk collection, but almost every collection is my favourite, especially its chronograph series. As told by most renowned watchmakers, creating a beautiful chronograph movement is more difficult than making a tourbillon. Besides Patek Philippe and Minerva of Montblanc, A. Lange & Söhne also has the most stunning hand-wound chronograph movement. Datograph is one of the most signature chronograph model in the brand’s history and even in the entire watch-making industry. Anyway, 1815 Chronograph is another piece that can be compared with Datograph. Since 2004, 1815 Chronograph has become a member of the 1815 collection, incorporating the classic design element of pocket watch - the minute railway track symmetrical to the sub-dial plate. In 2010, 1815 Chronograph is replaced with new hand-wound chronograph movement L951.5, with the frequency of 2.5Hz and 60-hour power reserve. Revealing the exquisite handcraftsmanship, the calibre is finely polished and adorned, not to mention the beautiful carvings on the balance wheel and bridge, flyback chronograph with precisely jumping minute counter and pulsometer scale. The traditional German watch-making elements are worth to be mentioned as well, like 3/4 plate, swan neck regulator and screwed gold chatons. Composed of a 39.5mm white gold case, this year’s brand-new 1815 Chronograph also includes the same hand-wound chronograph movement, yet with a black dial with silvered accents. 以前在品牌打工，以為自己知道很多認識很深，但轉到腕錶雜誌工作，才知道世界那麼大，自己何等渺小無知。從那時起，便一直很喜歡朗格，很想到格拉蘇蒂去看他們的錶廠。去年底終於有機會，去看他們的Pre-SIHH新錶，看他們的製錶工藝，還有幸遇見已故的Walter Lange先生。記得當時品牌在Lange家族的大宅裡，展出差不多所有品牌在過去二十多年重生以來推出的腕錶。愛不釋手的是Zeitwerk系列，但其實幾乎每一款我都喜歡，都想擁有，尤其是計時款式。 很多製錶大師都不只一次講過，要造一台漂亮的計時機芯，比造陀飛輪更難。而現時手造上鍊計時機芯造得最漂亮的，除了百達翡麗，除了萬寶龍的Minerva，還有朗格。 Datograph在品牌歷史上，甚至整個製錶工業上，是最為重要最為經典的計時腕錶之一，但其實1815 Chronograph也不遑多讓。從2004年開始，品牌為1815家族加入新的計時錶款1815 Chronograph，加入昔日袋錶的設計元素，例如火車軌分鐘刻度環 和對稱的sub-dial錶盤設計。到2010年，品牌為1815 Chronograph換上一台全新的手上鍊計時機芯L951.5，2.5 Hz擺頻，60小時動力儲備，機芯以全人手打磨和裝飾，擺輪夾板亦以手工雕刻上漂亮花紋；備飛返計時功能、跳分式計時和脈搏計刻度。還有傳統德國風格的製錶工藝，例如四分三夾板、鵝頸微調、黃金螺絲套筒等。今年推出的新款1815 Chronograph，同樣採用這台L951.5手上鍊飛返計時機芯，但就換上黑色純銀錶盤，襯以39.5毫米白金錶殼。

Before watching the new watch collections at Basel, I visited Chaplin’s World in Vevey, a former residence of Charlie Chaplin and his memorial museum. Why shall I visited there? As Jaeger- LeCoultre is a collaborator of Chaplin’s World, and the museum contains two objects that links closely with this blue-chip brand. Charlie Chapilin is one of the most iconic movie actor and director in the world. I did not know his fame when I was young, but the others (people at my age group) know him very well .Charlie was born in UK in 1889, his sad childhood— His father was disappeared, his mother raised him solely with poor economic condition ensured him to work in 9 years old. The young Charlie had also engaged in performing work, he started his acting career in Hollywood when he was brought to work abroad in USA in 19 years old. Throughout the years this talented artist had written, directed and performed a number of great movies, in order to become one of the most renowned people in the US movie industry. Unfortunately Charlie and his family were forced to leave the industry and resided to Vevey in Switzerland (until he died in 1977), as the consequences of different scandals and political views. The location of Chaplin’s World is the manor of Charlie settled in Switzerland. In year 2000, a group of heartful people had devoted their time and money to prepare and reconstruct the movie genius’ house, and this attraction spot was opened at the end of April last year. Behind the large field of garden, there is a museum (converted from Charlie’s manor) that keep the living area of the iconic actor, including parlour, bedroom, study room, and even the bathroom. Besides, you can discover a number of Chaplin’s filming scenes and some working studio. The museum is jam-packed with rich and interesting content, it is worthy to spend a whole day to visit if you are interested with this great movie icon. After a profound understanding with Charlie Chaplin, you can take a good rest at a fine restaurant with great greenery view. MEMOVOX In 1953 Charlie settled down in Switzerland, the state governor gave a Jaeger‑LeCoultre Memovox watch featuring a gold case engraved with the following inscription: “Hommage du gouvernement Vaudois à Charlie Chaplin – 6 octobre 1953”,in order to praise his grand tribute to the movie industry. After the movie master died in 1977, his son Michael Chaplin inherited the timepiece and gave it to his wife at the wedding. Then in 2013, the Memovox appeared at the short movie《A time for everything》 directed by Carmen Chaplin, the daughter of Michael. Recently, Jaeger-LeCoultre repaired this Jaeger- LeCoultre Memovox, and exhibit at the Chaplin’s World. ATMOS CLOCK In 1972, he was awarded “Caméra souriante” (smiling camera) prize by the Swiss press photographers association, as purpose to honour the artist for his kind attitude towards national journalists and this homage to a warm-hearted man took the shape of an Atmos clock. Jaeger-Le Coultre also borrows a same model of Atmos Clock and is display on the Manor as well. 到巴塞爾看新錶之前，去了Vevey看差利卓別靈的故居兼博物館，為什麼要去Chaplin's World？因為積家是Chaplin's World的合作伙伴，因為這裡有兩件物件，與積家息息相關。 差利卓別靈是世界上最經典的電影演員和導演之一，年輕的我不知道，但有我這把年紀的，應該無人不認識他。他於1889年在英國出生，年幼時父親失踪，由母親獨力照顧，家景貧窮，9歲未夠便得出來謀生，也有從事表演工作。到19歲時被帶到美國，開始其荷里活演藝生涯，多年來他自編自導自演過多套電影，更成為美國最著名的電影人之一。可惜受到醜聞和政見不同的影響，他和家人在1953年被逼離開自己渡過黃金歲月的地方，搬到瑞士的Vevey生活，直至1977年離世。 Chaplin's World的所在位置，便是差利卓別靈搬到瑞士時定居的地方。2000年時經一班有心人發起，再經歷多年的籌備和修建，於去年四月底時才正式對外開放。這裡有一大片花園；有改建成博物館的大宅，裡面保留了差利起居生活的地方，例如大廳、睡房、書房，甚至浴室；還有多個差利曾經拍攝過的電影場景和一些製片工作室。展覽內容十分豐富和有趣，對這位一代電影偉人的生平有興趣的話，很值得花一整天到這裡參觀，看累了，這裡有間餐廳，也有一大片綠油油的草地讓你可以舒展一下身心。 響 鬧 腕 錶 早於1953年差利搬到瑞士定居時，當時的州政府為了要表揚他對電影業的偉大貢獻，特別向他致送了一枚積家的Memovox響鬧腕錶，更在黃金錶殼上刻上「Hommage du gouvemement Vaudois à Charlie Chaplin - 6 Octobre 1953」的字樣。到1977年他去死時，他的兒子Michael Chaplin繼承了這枚腕錶，並在結婚時轉送了給妻子。後來於2013年，這枚腕錶又再次出現在Michael女兒Carmen Chaplin所導演的一套短片《A time for everything》中。最近積家就把這枚Memovox響鬧腕錶修復好，讓差利的家人可以把它放於Chaplin's World的大宅博物館內展出。 空 氣 鐘 到1972年，瑞士攝影記者協會向已故的差利卓別靈頒發「Caméra Souriante」（smiling camera）獎項，以表揚他對待傳媒的友善態度，並向他致送一座積家的Atmos Clock空氣鐘。現時積家便借出一座相同型號的空氣鐘，在大宅博物館內展出。

Bulgari Hotel London is the pinnacle of culinary excellence with 4 bars and a restaurant, including Il Bar, The Lounge, Spirit Room, Rivea London and a cigar bar—Edward Sahakian Cigar Shop & Sampling Lounge. ​ Featuring a shimmering silver theme and a central hammered metal bar exquisitely created by renowned Italian artisan, II Bar attracts numerous celebrities with its great variety of drinks and an updated list of innovative cocktails. Going downstairs from the nearby silver spiral staircase, you can reach Rivea London, a high-end restaurant owned by legendary chef Alain Ducasse and helmed by his apprentice Alexandre Nicolas, the Executive Chef of the restaurant. Rivea London mainly offers exquisite French and Italian fusion cuisine, and has a private dining room for up to 24 guests. ​ The Lounge is located in the hotel lobby, a warm welcoming place to enjoy simple and delicate snacks. Spirit Room is situated nearby II Bar, a hidden private bar replete with rare and prestigious wine as well as a fine collection of books, where guests can enjoy beautiful wine and profound content at the same time. 酒店內設有4間酒吧及餐廳，包括Il Bar、The Lounge、Spirit Room和Rivea London，還有一間名為Edward Sahakian Cigar Shop & Sampling Lounge的雪茄吧。 Il Bar同樣以銀色作為設計主調，中央的特大吧枱，是由意大利著名設計師以金屬錘打的方式製造而成；Il Bar供應各式各樣的飲料，亦會不時推出新創的雞尾酒，吸引不少城中名人光顧。從Il Bar旁邊的銀色旋轉樓梯走下去，便可以去到酒店餐廳Rivea London。餐廳由著名米芝蓮星級廚師Alain Ducasse主理，他的愛徒Alexandre Nicolas就是餐廳的執行總廚，主打意大利和法國的fusion菜，裡面還附設可供24人晚膳用的private dining room。The Lounge設於酒店大堂，供應簡單精緻的茶點。 Spirit Room則設於Il Bar旁邊，是一個較隱敝的私人酒吧，提供罕有的高級陳年佳釀，也陳列著一批珍藏書籍，讓顧客一邊品嚐美酒一邊閱讀。